Home › Forums › Share Your Hand › No Limit Holdem › 1-2 \ 1-3 › Is this a cooler? + buy in question
- This topic has 4 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 7 months ago by Chuck M.
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05/14/2018 at 7:50 am #2801TommyXRParticipant
Second live session ever. I went down 250$, really tilted me off (after, I think I didn’t tilt in game and played not badly)
Also lost JJ to QQ, and a Q high flush vs a K high flush this day.
And what do you guys prefer between buying 50BB and 100BB when going to the table? Advantages/disadvantages of both?
- This topic was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by TommyXR.
05/14/2018 at 1:08 pm #2805John SParticipantYeah, that’s a cooler. Only way that ends differently is you bombing pre-flop, flop, or turn, getting him to fold and winning nothing. Don’t worry about that hand or the other ones you mentioned.
The buy-in a question is a lot more complicated. There are some short buy strategies, and some deepstack strategies. Short stack gets you in more weird situations where you really can’t bluff/make other moves properly, especially if players are straddling. Those 50BB turns into 20BB in a 1/2/5 game.
If you are the best/one of the best players at the table, you want to buy deeper so you can get max value from the other players. However, in your case, this being your second live session over, I don’t see a reason for you to not buy-in for 50BB. It’s what you’re comfortable with. You may feel better playing 3 50BB buy-ins rather than 2 100BB buy-ins, if that makes sense. Poker is just like anything else – there may be a “right” way to do things, but you need to do what works best for you.
I often would short-buy when I started out. I notice I would tend to play too loose and start calling pre-flop too light if I bought in for the max. So I bought in short, played tighter and started winning more.
Now that I play a lot of 3/5, I tend to buy-in for $800 rather than the max of $1000. I mainly do this because I’m more comfortable playing 2 $800 buy-ins rather than 2 at $1000. Sure, I can lose a little value in big hands, but it works for me and I think I’m more profitable playing that way.
05/14/2018 at 2:59 pm #2806TommyXRParticipantThank you very much for the detailed answer.
I’ve been playing for about 6 months online. I know playing JTo wasn’t the best move, but I think I should’ve went home earlier since I was card dead all game long and all, but everyone at the table was playing so loosely that I didn’t see harm in trying playing this hand.
I guess it wasn’t my day, will continue studying and hope for the best!
Thank you again.
05/14/2018 at 8:06 pm #2807David WibelParticipantIt’s something of a cooler, getting 2 outed sucks but we were also behind preflop by a huge margin. I would like to see a bigger raise pre flop, something like $15 We are happy with picking this up pre flop. Once we see the flop it is straightforward, shovel the money in and hope to hold on. You are still going to lose about 9% of the time once the flop hits against our opponents exact holdings but you made the right plays to set up for a river shove.
A few observations and obviously I am making these with perfect information so weight it appropriately. Based on this hand I would put our opponent as a tight passive player. ATs is a good hand, not premium but good, especially in position. If he is really a Tight aggressive player this has to be on the very top end of his limp calling range.
Thinking about the hand post flop, the 2 is a blank, even if our opponent had A2s, that is only improving 22 to a boat. The Ace on the river is another thing though.
With how the hand played out lets think about what our opponent calls with, It’s a double paired board, no strights no flushes. A call on the flop can mean a lot of things, gut shot straights with overs (KQ+ or KTs+) an Ace or most pairs below 99 and the last jack. The flop favors your range over a limp callers range.
The turn bet probably folds out a lot of the straight draws so our opponents range narrows quickly. With a turn call we can expect a lot of pairs, an Ace or a Jack. The river Ace changes things a lot. Now any pair TT or below just got counterfeit. He can’t call if you are bluffing with those hands because a lot of your bluffing hands (at this point mostly straight draws) probably beat those unless you are taking this line with like T9 or 89 of diamonds somehow. I find it unlikely he calls gets here unless he has exactly KQ, KT or QT of diamonds and is hoping his high card is good or chops. Now we lose to any Ace which I think is a lot of his range given how the hand played out. I think a Check call is better, we can’t fold, it’s too exploitative but it’s hard for our opponent to call with worse as strange as that sounds when we have a full house.
05/17/2018 at 3:50 pm #2811Chuck MParticipantI’m not sure I would’ve raised pf. I think checking our option here is fine, we close the action, and we’re about to see a flop “for free”. JTo oop, I don’t know, I might raise to win it pf, if so, I’d go somewhere between 15-18, as someone else mentioned. I think I’d rater check and take a flop with those connectors, trying to hit pair, 2pairs, draw, pair+draw. By raising to 10, that only accomplished to increase the size of the pot, we still play our dominated hand oop in a multiway pot. (Not that bad of a mistake, but I’d go check or raise larger).
Now we hit a dream flop, I like the bet, MP fold and LP calls, I expect him to have Ax, or some broadway cards with which he’s floating, maybe mid pocket pairs as well. Even tho the turn doesn’t change anything, I still like the vbet here. I really think he’s got an ace now, sure he could have something else, but Ax makes the most sense in my mind, and that’s perfect for us to get max value!
River is super ugly, I would check here, and literally go for a c/f. That’s sick, having to fold that hand, but we don’t really beat anything, we basically have a bluff catcher, at best we chop vs Jx. It’s a very unfortunate river, but I would shut down here 😐
And about the buy-in question, John S gave a very good answer
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